Jecod CP-40 hacking and DIY controller reverse engeneering

I just picked up a Jacod CP-40 gyre but was disappointing to see that the jabeo > apex connector does not work with this unit.. In efforts to figure out a way to work the signal and make my own i decided to do a little reverse engendering and see how it worked.. No keep in mind i’m still learning to use my oscilloscope.. this may be a bit of a leap for me.. but hey its a good time to learn!

 

The connector wiring

connector

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Backside of controller

cp40-ccontroller

front side of controller

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Oscilloscope testing
Yellow line is the yellow wire. Blue is brown wire.

Mode: H1 (constant speed)
Intensity: Lowest
CSV Filecp40-H1-lowspeed

Mode: H1 (constant speed)
Intensity: Full Speed
CSV File
cp40-h1-fullspeed

 

 

Mode: W1 (short pulse Wave mode)
Intensity: Low speed
CSV File

cp40-w1-low

 

Mode: W1 (short pulse Wave mode)
Intensity: Full Speed
CSV Filecp40-w1-fullspeed

 

Mode: W3 (fixed forumla wave)
Intensity: low
CSV Filecp40-w3-low

 

Mode: W3 (fixed forumla wave)
Intensity: full
CSV Filecp40-w3-fullspeed

DIY magnetic Kalk stirrer 

Magnetic stirrers are one of the simplest ways to build a DIY Kalk stirrer. I used an old reactor with a missing lid for the tube. You could also just use PVC or an acrylic tube.  For the used a hole saw and made a hole in the centre of a square of acrylic and bonded it to the tube. I sandwiches some rubber beteeeen a second price and drilled holes for nylon wing nuts   The rubber in the middle seals the lid
The base is a square of acrylic to hold a 120mm PC fan.  I did have to shave a few mm off the side of the fan to make it fit.  I glued a rare earth magnet to the centr of the fan and aligned it a few mm below the top of the frame to ensure it can spin freely

Inside the reactor be sure to put a piece of glass on the bottom to prevent the internal stir bar from wearing through the acrylic over time

   
    
   

DIY magnetic doser stand

Having a steel stand makes it a little hard to add on.. Well that is if you don’t use magnets!  I have been using strong magnets to mount all kinds of stuff inside my stand including my Jabeo doser 
I vent a price of acrylic by claiming it beteeeen 2 prices of wood and going over the edge with a heat Gun. I then used drywall plugs into the space between magnets in a magnetic strip bar and used screws to attach the two together 

The magnetic strip came from princess auto and was about $15. The acrylic I had laying around so all in all it was a pretty cheap project and looks great

 
 
   
    

How to clean dry or used sand for your reef

Dry sand can be full of dust and cloud your tank for days.  Used sand can be full of detritus and bad stuff that you probably don’t want to add into your tank. If you are using either of theses sands its best to give them a real good rinse prior to use. The easiest way is to pour your sand into a 5g bucket and push the garden hose all the way down to the bottom. Turn your hose on full and let the water work its way and and bring the little particles with it.  You can swish it around and mix it up or just let it run. I any take a good 20 minutes with the water running so you mind as well do it in the middle of your lawn so it gets a good watering! 

Once the water runs clear you will want to ensue the sand is fully dried prior to adding to your tank.  
Spread your sand out on a tarp and let it bask in the sun until dry and your good to go. 

$30 DIY Media Reactor

diy-reactor

For a couple hours and $30 you can build your self a custom GFO, carbon, or bio pellet reactor! After searching for reactors and being shocked how they can cost upwaords of 150-200$ for a tube i decided to try and build my own.. while in the dollar store i noticed a $3 glass pasta jar that was the perfect size for a reactor. The hardest part was finding the little bulkhead style pipe.. I found these lovely little bits at home hardware.  The circular mesh came from michales.  The red pvc i already had laying around.

One word of warning. The lids tend to be a bit thinner so be careful not to force and fittings as it may crack the lid.  I remedied this buy laying down a layer of epoxy (poly urathane) overtop of the lid to bond the cracsks and seal it all together.. If you drill it successffuly with out cracking it then i’m sure you can skip this step unless you want to strengthen the lid.  Either way its fairly low pressure inside and should not be an issue.

If using this as a diy carbon reactor I would use the sponges above and below to hold the carbon tightly and prevent tumbling.

If doing a DIY GFO reactor leave space above the gfo and adjust your flow so that the top just simmers.. you want some movement in the gfo doesnt bond together.
for DIY Bio pellet reactors just use the mesh screen and have high flow so the bio pellets are continuously churning in the chamber.

 

Parts List

1x Glass Pasta Jar with plastic lid ($3 at dollarrama)
2x 1/2″ Flexible Elbow Conduit ($4.99 Item #3622-681 at home hardware)
1x Water Filter Head Seal Gasket ($6.20 Item #3115-809 at home hardware) part may vary depending on jar
1x Schedule 40 1/2″ Slip PVC Cap (0.79 cents at home hardware Item #3262-631)
1x Schedule 40 1/2″ Slip x Female Imperial Pipe PVC Adapter ($0.99 at home hardware Item #3262-301)
1x pack of 4.5″ mesh circles ($2.99 at Michaels crafts)
1x length of PVC – size depends on your juar
1x can of krylon fusion in your color of choice to make it look pretty. ($6.99 at Canadian tire)
1x epoxy of choice… if you happen to crack the lid while drilling 😉   … Pro tip! make sure the hole is big enough (5/8″ i believe…) my step drill bit only wen to 1/2″ ish which was a tad small.. i tired to force screw it in which caused the thinner lid to crack.

Cleaning power heads and aquarium equipment 

Coralline algae looked awesome on rocks but can become an issue when it covers your aquarium equipment.

With enough buildup Power heads can slow down or even stop… This could lead to disaster if they are unable to turn on after a power outage and should be cleaned every few months.  Heaters and other equipment can also loose efficiently as they they get coated im coralline.
But don’t worry there is a very easy fix!  The secret to dissolving it is a very common household acid.. Vinegar!  Just soak your equipment in vinegar for a few hours and the coralline will dislike and turn to mush. A quick rinse/wipe and your equipment will look like new!

Before the soak


After a couple hours in a vinegar bath.. And it’s like new! 

DIY phytoplankton Culturing

I have been thinking of culturing my own phyto for a while now.. recently my local store stopped selling some fresh cultures so i decided to try out my own.

Ideally one would start with a specific strain however there was slim pickens where i live so i decided to go with the only live culture i could find. I found a nice big bottle of phytofeast to get started.
phytopheast
I mixed the salt water to around 1.019 – 1.020. For the fertalizer I decided to use miraclegrow for the first batch (and ordered some F2 for future cultures).

I mixed two different batches.  The 2L bottle was my first attempt with 5ml of miracle grow.  The second batch I added 1ml of miraclge grow to the 500ml bottle and  thew the bottle into the microwave for 2 min to sterilize it.. once it cooled i added some live phyto (mixed much darker than the first one) and added it to the shelf

The light is currently on a timer for to run at 16 hours per day…

Day1:  will see how it goes! 🙂
diy-phyto-culture

 

DIY Arduino Apex aquarium controller

currently i’m working on building a wifi controllable/programmable sprinkler controller… and started thinking why not turn this into a tank controller! Once this project is done ill likely start my own version of a  reef controller. I’m on the fence on using arduino or raspberryPi.. but im sure it will be one of the two..

Arduino is alot easier to interface with sensors .. and raspberryPi is easier to work with wifi/webpages to interface it.. so its a trade off. (or maybe use both?!)

Stay tuned for more awesome projects and check out the quick demo below.

 

 

Update dec 2 2015

So I found an excellent project based fully with arduino by doughboy. rather than reinventing the wheel i will be using his project as a bse to build off of.. the origional project can be found here.
I started building my arduino based controller from the same project.
So far it runs tiny web server for the web interface. Logs sensor data to an SD card

Controls an 8 channel relay board

Displays info on a LCD screen

Uses a SR04 sonar sensor for ATO water level.

Next will be adding. Temp sensor

 

 

Dec 2nd!  More progress

Today I hacked a cheap auto-feeder and integrated it with the Arduino… I now have own DIY Apex feeder for only $15 🙂

I also got the temperature sensors installed and logging! wooo 🙂

 

Diy drip acliminator

I was tired of using  binder clips and clamps to hold my airline in place and hope nothing slides out… I though to my self.. there must be a better way? Why yes there is! I made a rigid u shaped tube out of some left over acrylic pipe from mounting my DIY Osmolator sensors to securely hang over the edge of my tank.

I used a heat gun to heat up the acrylic pipe and simply bend at the warm/soft area to the desired shape. Be sure to do this very slowly so dont kink the inner tube. You will also want to keep moving the heat gun so you dont get bubbles in the rod from to much heat.

For the adjuster i razord the edge of a airline valve to a point (took off the excess bulk) heated up the end of the acrylic tube and worked it in.  I then superglued the fittings together to ensure there was no chance of a leak.

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Simply connect the airline from the bottom to your bucket and acclimate away!  no more clips to fiddle width, scratch your glass or slide out of place!  Simple and very effective.

DIY auto top off – arduino Optical ATO

Evaporation and increased salinity levels is one of the fastest ways to crash your tank.. An ATO, auto top off or technically an osmolator will automatically add freshwater back in to your tank to keep the water level constant and compensate for evaporation.

Since a fancy auto top off can cost 100-200$ I decided to make my own extremely accurate version for a fraction of the cost.

Rather than using just a standard float valve (which can fail) I went with an optical water level sensor, which is very accurate and detects when water touches the top of the sensor. I also added a float valve as a backup.

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The microprocessor will only activate the pump of both sensors are not detecting water. If either one senses water the filling sequence is skipped

I also added a Hold switch to the box. When this switch is hit the arduino goes into a loop of blinking the LED as a reminder to turn it back on. This Hold mode will be useful when doing water changes.

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I may add a third safety of only running the pumps for so many second per fill. But this is dependant on if I do micro topoffs 24h/day or hair have the ATO check every few hours or at times I’m not around.

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I need some form of a 6 pin connector but came up short and decided to go with a DB9 connector as they are cheap and readily available.(null)

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Once i soldered the sensors on to my wire i covered the last half of the wire all the way down to the sensors  in heat shrink to seal it up and have a nice black wire to blend in with the back of the tank.(null)

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Motor on the left,  12V power in the bottom right. DB9 connector for the sensors and USB in case i want to adjust the programming at a future date.

I found a thin acrylic rube which was about the size of an airline. This allowed me to use an airline holder as my mount.  The beauty of this method is i can very easily raise and lower it to set my water level.

 

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Once i fill the tank ill trim the rod to about the level of the tank. to clean things up.  I do love the simplicity and adjust-ability of this method of mounting it.

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Side view of the sensors in the tank. I plan on keeping the water level slightly below this overflow into the pump chamber. This should minimize nose 🙂

 

DIY Automated water changes

Arduino aquarium water changer:

Water changes seems to be the hardest or most time consuming part of keeping an aquarium.. So why not automate it?  In a previous write up i build an automated dosing system i called the Arduino auto doser.  I plan on using the same concept to build an automated water change system with a bit of a twist.

Most water changers simply drain water out than add water back in.  Since my nano reef is a 12G Fluval edge this system would create air bubbles in the top of the tank taking away from its clean aesthetics.  In this system I plan to take out water as the same time i add it. This should keep the water at a consistent level having less impact on the tank while maintaining that elegant look.

For this project I will being using a triple head dosing pump. For now we are only going to use 2 of the heads.. however a third may be useful down the road if i ever decide to do a frag tank. and fill it with water taken from the main nano.

The pump I decided on an industrial Watson marlow pump which i picked up off ebay for about $55. I originally order some cheaper ones from over seas but worried about how precise they were.. this made me lean towards a higher end pump.

wastson-marlow-1 watson-marlow-2

 

The pump head ever has an adjuster to fine tune the output.  This should allow me to calibrate each line to push an identical amount of water.
The pump was previously used for what looks like ink so all hoses will be replaced.

Once calibrated you could automate this with a simple digital wall timer.. however I tend to like safety precautions so I plan on using arduino as my timer with a sensor to kill power to the pump if the water level gets to high.

The fluval edge only has a small collar to work with so everything must be precisely calibrated.

 

 

Fluval edge reef rim

I’m still waiting for the pump to show up in the mail.. So check back often or sign up to our email list at the top of the page as this project will be updated once i receive the goods 🙂

The pump and my optical sensor finally showed up. So far so good for the initial testing.

The ensure for the pump side is complete. Not the prettiest but it eo do the job. It’s enclosed to keep it quiet and prevent and possible leak!

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I made a water level sensor holder only to realize my aftermarket led light hits the wires!! Rats. I’ll have to make a second one and hold a sensor on each side of the aquaclear to get around this. Tomorrows project!

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March 20 Update.

I moved this tank into a Nuvo 24 and no longer had access to a water line.  I convertered this into two projects.  The first is an auto top off (link to come) and an auto water change that works with Buckets.  Tank water is pumped into an empty bucket at the same time as water is pumped in from a bucket of fresh water.

innovative marine nuvo 24 – The lost shrimp city

After realizing i was severly suferring from multiple tank syndrome i decided it was time to consolidate a few of my tanks.. but if i was going to cut down on tank s the new one had to be pretty awesome. I love the look of Mr Aqua 12G long tanks however it wasnt quite enough capacity to combine a few shrimp tanks..

Let me introduce the innovative marine nuvo 24. This stylish little tank is is made of 6mm bent glass and has a built in sump… this is generally a salt water thing but seemed perfect to hide all of the equipment and keep that clean look. One of the best part are the dimensions. The tank is 36x12x13. The sump area is about 3″ deep leaving 10″ ish deep for the display area.

Innovative marine nuvo 24

The stock pump is 460 ish GPH which has tons of flow for a small thank however i feel its a bit overkill for my shrimp (and a little loud) so i just ordered a Sicce Syncra Silent 1.0 Pump – 251 GPH.

Sicce-Syncra-Silent

For lighting I decided to try out the new ecoxotic e-series, this awesome little light has tons of par and a wireless remote that lets youe-series-ecoxotic fine tune each color to achieve the perfect blend. the light also had a built in timmer and a few pre-programmed modes to simulate clouds and thunder storms. (these modes cant be used with the built in timer.. but i plan on fixing that later with an arduino based controller) The light it selv is very small and sleek

 

 

 

The wood for the scape was stolen out of my other nano tanks. After about 20 different spaces i finally designed on a layout using 3 chunks of driftwood into one feature.

Scape-dry-start

 

(offsetted for astecticinterest.. always rember to use the rule of thirds!) it was time to start my dry start (DSM)

For my new tank i decided to go with Glosso due to is ease of maintenance.. but omg was it a slow proccess. I had a lush carpet of HC in a little over a month. my glosso dry start had two months to grow before i start to fully fill and even when flooded 2 months later it still had lots of work todo.

glosso-dry-start

 

 

 

Now with a pretty cool design ready i needed to find a stand. The cube stand I had was 36″ wide and fit the tank perfectly.. however it was pretty flimsy and I didnt trust it with 150lbs of water ontop of it.  Time to re-enforce it!

cube-stand-reinforcement

To add strength I glued strips of 5/8″ plywood to the stand using PL400 , clamped it down and let it dry over night.

xpaint-cube-stand

Once dry i used a bit of drywall mud to smooth it out and bled the seams from the origional stand with the plywood.
with the structural work done it was time for paint.

aquarium-cube-stand

And i do say it turned out awesome!  The seams blended perfectly and gave the stand a nice chunky look… which a weight worthy stand ready it was time to fill it.
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nuvo24-shrimp

I added a giant bag of bio-rings from various other tanks and let the tank run over night, tested the water the next day and things looked good so i added my first batch of shrimp

flooded-tan-shrim-city

lost-shrimp-city

More updates to come once I get the new pump and co2 diffuser 🙂

Jan 12 2015:
Well it’s been a good month plus since the last update and the glosso is slowly but surely spreading. I finally almost have a nice lush carpet!

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DIY Planaria Trap

planaria-white-worm-aquariumPlanaria are non-parasitic flatworm worm that can appear in your aquarium. Planaria are easiest identified  by there flat body and spade shaped heads. Many claim that they are harmless and just an eyesore however that has been claims that they may hurt or stress out baby or week adult shrimp.  The two main way s to get rid of planaria is by chemicals or diy traps.  Traps may not 100% guarantee removal unless used over an extended period they are however non invasive and remove the risk of any of your other under water creatures being hurt by chemicals.

If you choose to go down the chemical warfare route the most common option is a dog dewormer containing fenbendazole such as safeguard.
The agreed upon “safe” dosing of fenbendazole is .1 grams per 10 Gallons of aquarium.   Be sure to remove any carbon that my be in your filter as it will absorb the chemicals and defeat the purpose of dosing the tank. Within 48 hours your planaria should all be dead. Vacuum away and enjoy a pest free tank.

In my shrimp tank i just moved in some Crystal red and Crystal Black shrimp.. I didnt want to use chemicals after just moving them and decided to build a DIY Planaria Trap. You can purchase them but they can be a bit pricey for such a small device.

To build mine i used a test tub from a test kit, and some airline house.

1. Drill a 1/4 hole in the lid of the test tube
2. Push in a peice of airline tubing. Ensure the tube is floating in the center of the tube (this make its harder from the planaria to escape)
3. Fill your trap with tank water and bait it with meat, shrimp, blood worms or some other form of tasty raw food.
4. 3. Tie on some thread or thin string to retrieve your catch and submerge

diy-planaria-trap

I left this trap overnight and work up to bout 5-6 planaria in the trap so it seems to be working well!
catch-planaria

Arduino Controlled Dosing Pumps

Aquarium controllers can make your life easier.. especially when it comes to remembering to dose your aquarium.  I recently started a new planted tank and realized how bad my lax dosing schedule was… to fix this i decided to build an arduino based dosing system. Yes it may be overkill.. but I do love automation and building so this seemed like the perfect project! They dosing shield consists of an RTC DS1307. I searched the web for countless hours researching how to build this project… I found lots of bits of information but no complete guides so i decided to do this write up as a step by step guide for the beginner arduino builder.

[youtube_video] 8gr5I7OUo7I [/youtube_video]

Arduino Auto Doser

Shopping list:

DS1307 RTC  $3.50
Arduino Uno ATmega 328 $15
Arduino Prototype Shield $5.50  (optional but recommended)3x 1k Resistor
3x IRFZ44N (or any other N channel transistor)
3x Diodes
1x l7805cv   – 5V regulator
3x Dosing pump (ebay)

arduino dosing pump controller IMG_3398

Find a box to mount your project in… This lovely tea box was a whopping $3  and makes a perfect project box.  IMG_3406

Drill some holes yo mount the motors. IMG_3408

Paint your box if desired them mount your components.
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Update: I finally got a proper tube holder!

tube-holder-aquarium-doser

The Schematic:

arduino controlled dosing pumps

arduino controlled dosing pumps

Arduino Sketch

// Deven Rich   12-5-2013
// This project was built on the Arduino Uno - ATmega328P
// I would also like to give credit to Maurice Ribble for providing chunks of the RTC code
// This code sets up the DS1307 Real Time clock on the Arduino board to controll 3 dosing pumps
// The RTC keeps track of time, the code checks it and turns on the pumps at a specified time
// to dose your aquarium

#include "Wire.h"
#define DS1307_I2C_ADDRESS 0x68

// Convert normal decimal numbers to binary coded decimal
byte decToBcd(byte val)
{
return ( (val/10*16) + (val%10) );
}

// Convert binary coded decimal to normal decimal numbers
byte bcdToDec(byte val)
{
return ( (val/16*10) + (val%16) );
}

// Stops the DS1307, but it has the side effect of setting seconds to 0
// Probably only want to use this for testing
/*void stopDs1307()
{
Wire.beginTransmission(DS1307_I2C_ADDRESS);
Wire.write(0);
Wire.writeWire.writeWire.write(0x80);
Wire.endTransmission();
}*/

// 1) Sets the date and time on the ds1307
// 2) Starts the clock
// 3) Sets hour mode to 24 hour clock
// Assumes you're passing in valid numbers
void setDateDs1307(byte second,        // 0-59
byte minute,        // 0-59
byte hour,          // 1-23
byte dayOfWeek,     // 1-7
byte dayOfMonth,    // 1-28/29/30/31
byte month,         // 1-12
byte year)          // 0-99
{
Wire.beginTransmission(DS1307_I2C_ADDRESS);
Wire.write(0);
Wire.write(decToBcd(second));    // 0 to bit 7 starts the clock
Wire.write(decToBcd(minute));
Wire.write(decToBcd(hour));      // If you want 12 hour am/pm you need to set
// bit 6 (also need to change readDateDs1307)
Wire.write(decToBcd(dayOfWeek));
Wire.write(decToBcd(dayOfMonth));
Wire.write(decToBcd(month));
Wire.write(decToBcd(year));
Wire.endTransmission();
}

// Gets the date and time from the ds1307
void getDateDs1307(byte *second,
byte *minute,
byte *hour,
byte *dayOfWeek,
byte *dayOfMonth,
byte *month,
byte *year)
{
// Reset the register pointer
Wire.beginTransmission(DS1307_I2C_ADDRESS);
Wire.write(0);
Wire.endTransmission();

Wire.requestFrom(DS1307_I2C_ADDRESS, 7);

// A few of these need masks because certain bits are control bits
*second     = bcdToDec(Wire.read() & 0x7f);
*minute     = bcdToDec(Wire.read());
*hour       = bcdToDec(Wire.read() & 0x3f);  // Need to change this if 12 hour am/pm
*dayOfWeek  = bcdToDec(Wire.read());
*dayOfMonth = bcdToDec(Wire.read());
*month      = bcdToDec(Wire.read());
*year       = bcdToDec(Wire.read());
}

//define pins
int motorPin1 = 9;
int motorPin2 = 10;
int motorPin3 = 11;

void setup()  // run once, when the sketch starts
{
byte second, minute, hour, dayOfWeek, dayOfMonth, month, year;
pinMode(motorPin1, OUTPUT);
pinMode(motorPin2, OUTPUT);
pinMode(motorPin3, OUTPUT);

Wire.begin();
Serial.begin(9600);

// Change these values to what you want to set your clock to.
// You only need to run this the first time you setup your RTC.
// Set the correct value below and un comment it to run it.

/*
second = 45;
minute = 55;
hour = 9;
dayOfWeek = 2;
dayOfMonth = 30;
month = 4;
year = 13;
setDateDs1307(second, minute, hour, dayOfWeek, dayOfMonth, month, year);

*/

}
void loop() // run over and over again
{
byte second, minute, hour, dayOfWeek, dayOfMonth, month, year;

// this prints the output to the serial window (tools > serial monitor in arduino) and is great for testing
getDateDs1307(&second, &minute, &hour, &dayOfWeek, &dayOfMonth, &month, &year);
Serial.print(hour, DEC);
Serial.print(":");
Serial.print(minute, DEC);
Serial.print(":");
Serial.print(second, DEC);

// Set the time you want the motors to kick in
if((hour == 21)&&(minute == 23)&&(second==10)){
Serial.print(" TRUE");
Serial.println(" ");
Serial.println(" MP1");
analogWrite(motorPin1, 255);
delay(8500); // set how long you want the motor to run... 1000 = aprox 1ml

analogWrite(motorPin1, 0);
Serial.println(" MP2");
analogWrite(motorPin2, 255);
delay(9500); // set how long you want the motor to run... 1000 = aprox 1ml

analogWrite(motorPin2, 0);
Serial.println(" MP3");
analogWrite(motorPin3, 255);
delay(5500); // set how long you want the motor to run... 1000 = aprox 1ml
analogWrite(motorPin3, 0);

}
// we dont really need this since we set the pin to low above but just incase 🙂
else{Serial.println(" false");
analogWrite(motorPin1, 0);
analogWrite(motorPin2, 0);
analogWrite(motorPin3, 0);
}

delay(1000);

}

Let me know if you have any questions and enjoy your new Arduino Dosing pumps!

As request I snapped a pic of the underside of the board

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DIY Led Aquarium Night Lights

Led’s make great night lights, especially in an aquarium!

The T5HO lights were a little bright for watching movies at night so i decided to dim down night mode using leds.

For this project i decided to use a strip of RGB leds so i could pick custom colors and fine tune the look of this tank.

 

I found a 75′ roll of black thermostat control wire for 3$ at princess auto which was just about perfect for making my led power wire. The only down fall was the wire was 3 wire.. so i added a 4th strand and use small chucks of heat shrink to a single 4 wire cable.

diy-led-wire

heat shrink became a very clean way to join the wires for the RGB Leds.

led-wires

The RGB leds have 3m double sided tape as a backing that made it a breeze to stock to the T5HO fixture. My only worry is if the heat from the T5’s will loosen the led sticker or not.. but time will tell!

led-t5ho-mod

A simple RGB controller let you pick the perfect color. You can pick your color, fading effects, brightness and speed.
I got this controller fairly cheap off ebay and it works perfectly.

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The lighting will be controlled by a dual channel timer. This will allow me to turn on the leds when the T5 light turns off (and not blind me for night time movie nights)

IMG_2967

The power bar i used also has usb ports that will power a future arduino aquarium controller project.

Time for a test.. and it works!
So far the Aqua blue color is my favorite and will look great once the tank is filled.

aquarium-led-night-light

 

Test with the tank full of water and plants..  It looks awesome!

DIY-led-aquarium-night-light